I know you need more detailed instructions than this, but I have a tip for pleats. Get your skirt fabric in a long strip and iron in all the pleats before you sew the sides of the skirt together. When all the pleats are set in the long strip, you can try it on, get the right fit, and THEN sew the sides of the skirt together, and I'm guessing a waist band around the top of the skirt to hold it together. That's how they make hakama, anyway. (I hope that makes sense!)
Actually, try looking up kilt patterns online. It seems to be pretty much the same procedure and you can modify it if you need to. This picture is for pleated shorts ':shock:' but just ignore the dip in the middle and it's a skirt.
